The lowland streaked tenrec. Diet It is active during. Most tenrecs possess a long snout for poking around in the ground to find their food. Madagascan Tenrecs Roaming about the islands of. They can be fed a similar diet. They enjoy the odd mealworm and do well on a diet of fry cat food. Read about Tenrec ecaudatus (tailless tenrec). And small mammals in addition to its main diet of invertebrates. These tenrecs probe.
Proper Tenrec Housing Tenrecs love climbing, so that should be reflected in their caging. We have modified furniture to become vivariums for our tenrecs, which seems to be a very popular approach. Some wire cages may be appropriate, but bar spacing must be taken into consideration- tenrecs are very small, and capable of pushing their head between bars and getting stuck or killed. There are many DIY vivarium tutorials available online, it's worth checking out to find caging that works best for you! We recommend 1.5' x 3' floor space, with lots of climbing and hide options. Examples of good climbing options would be manzanita branches, synthetic vines (or real ones, which are commonly available for parrots and reptiles), stones or bricks (you can sterilize stones from outdoors in your oven), etc.
We also require at least one wheel option, preferably two. The one we require is an open-faced mesh wheel, as they enjoy climbing up the back of the wheel and creating a 'perpetual climbing wall' of sorts. No crossbars, as these pose the possibility of breaking limbs or spines. The other wheel, which is optional, would be a bucket wheel. Bucket wheels can be either be home-made or purchased online.
Tenrecs do not use water bottles, so dishes are needed for food and water. Heavy ceramic dishes are what I recommend.
We have separate dishes for kibble and for insects. Bedding, Litter, and Sandbaths The same beddings that are safe for hedgehogs are also acceptable for tenrecs, for the most part- Carefresh, fleece, Kaytee Clean & Cozy, and for litter, pine pellets, Carefresh, Clean & Cozy, or Yesterday's News are all acceptable. I don't recommend using shavings personally, as they seem to be less enjoyable to the tenrecs, but aspen or pine shavings are both technically safe. We use different types of bedding in different parts of the vivariums- one section has fleece strips, one section has small river stones, and one section has Carefresh. They seem to enjoy the variation! We keep the litter trays under their wheels, like the hedgehogs, but sometimes they'll pick their own potty spot, in which case you can either move the current tray or just add another in that spot. They are not quite so prolific in their waste production as hedgehogs are, so their litter trays need changing less often.
Tenrecs do also utilize sand baths. You can leave one in the cage at all times, though some may begin to use it as a litter box, so be aware of that possibility. You can also simply offer it every other day while they're out for handling, it's a hoot to watch!
Please do NOT use chinchilla dust as a bathing option for your tenrec, as we personally feel that it is too fine and it tends to cling to skin and in respiratory systems, rather than acting as an exfoliant like proper reptile sand does. Heating Lesser tenrecs are not as temperature sensitive as hedgehogs, but their cage should be kept around 72 degrees for most of the year. If you do not keep your house this temperature or higher, you'll want to invest in a ceramic heat emitter with a thermostat. During the winter while they are in torpor, keeping the cage between 60 and 70 degrees is best. Any lower than that and you will have difficulty bringing them out of torpor when the spring arrives. Dietary Needs For the most part, tenrecs are insectivorous. The main part of their diet should be made up of insects- wax worms, superworms, mealworms, dubia roaches, crickets, phoenix worms, hornworms, and butterworms are all great options.
It's best to keep a varied diet, so we order several types of insects at a time and rotate them out the next time we order. While most of these feeders are available at your local pet store, we've found we are able to buy healthier, fatter insects from online suppliers like Rainbow Mealworms. The other part of a tenrec's diet should be made up of high quality kibbles.
Keep in mind that the kibbles need to be small enough for them to manage, as they are smaller animals, and high in fat and protein (at least 30% protein and roughly 15%+ fat), so kitten foods are often appropriate. We feel it is very important to offer both insects and kibble in order to be sure that should emergency situations arise and bringing the insect supply with is not an option, that they will accept kibble (which is easier to transport and store). We also offer 'treats' to mix it up, such as scrambled eggs, ground beef, various veggie baby foods, and occasionally fruit, though they seem less interested in the latter.
We do not advise feeding tenrecs by hand, as they will not mean to, but they may accidentally catch your finger instead of a treat! Handling, Bonding, and Socialization Tenrecs seem to be naturally inquisitive and less defensive than many exotic pets, with proper daily handling and socialization. We recommend handling confidently and with varied approaches- move them from hand to hand, rest them on your back in your hand occasionally (though please realize this is a naturally vulnerable position for them, so this can make them a bit nervous!), They are climbers, as previously mentioned, so they often climb up your shirt or sweater to find a nice warm spot to snooze in. Ours love to settle on the back of my neck, using my hair as a 'curtain' to cover themselves! They are wonderful companions to 'wear' about the house while doing housework, studying or working at the computer, or just hanging out- they really are very easy to bond with! Two out of our four will even come to the front of their cages when called.
They are typically considered solitary creatures (though females can cohabitate quite nicely), but their curious and cuddly personalities are well-tailored to pet-hood. When looking into bringing home a tenrec, please be certain that the tenrec you've chosen has been handled and well-socialized as a baby, since it does make a difference! While tenrecs are not prone to being huffy (though they are capable of balling and making a quiet huffing sound when stressed), they are capable of biting when scared. An unsocialized tenrec will be more likely to behave this way- a properly socialized tenrec will rarely do so (we've never been bitten by ours!).
It's recommended to obtain your 'tenlet' from a breeder with fewer babies available each spring, as it is difficult to properly socialize a large number of animals at once. Keep in mind that tenrecs are also nocturnal animals. When getting your tenrec out, be aware that they will be more active and curious at night, and more interested in cuddling and naps during the day.
Diet Foods Recipes
Don't be alarmed if you don't hear much activity during daylight hours, it's just how they're wired! Torpor Perhaps one of the more unique aspects of tenrecs as pets is their hibernation in the winter months, known as torpor. They usually begin to slow down in the fall (around October) and you will notice their appetite and activity taper off as winter arrives.
While some may handle tenrecs less during this time, we continue handling during the winter months. As they are slower and sleepier, they will mostly just want to find a cozy spot on you and snooze. These cuddle sessions seem to make it easier for many tenrecs to come out of torpor in the spring, and it is also an ideal time to offer them a couple insects (though make sure they do not fall asleep while eating, this can cause tooth decay!).
Best Diet Foods
Typically tenrecs do not enter torpor in their first winter, though some do and simply experience a less dramatic appetite and activity decrease (as both of our girls did!). Tenrec Health Tenrecs are typically rather hardy animals, though they can be prone to upper respiratory infections (listen for wet, congested breathing, sneezes, and watch for excessive nose-licking), tooth decay and abscesses (particularly during torpor, check that they do not fall asleep with a mouthful of food), and may have difficulties coming out of torpor if kept at temperatures below 60 degrees during that time (regular handling through torpor also helps aide the ability to come out of it completely when spring arrives).