When sewing on bindings I've been doing it basically the same way but when I turn the corners I never did the last stitching that you show before folding the miter. Your way looks simpler so I'm going to try it. And I haven't tried joining the ends the way you did. I saw it demonstrated on Fons & Porter but with a diagnonal seam and I haven't had the nerve to try that method, so I still use another one that I learned. Your tutorial is great, easy to understand, and I will put your methods to use next time. Great tutorial!
Notions > Quilting Supplies. Quilting Supplies. Binding Babies Medium Blue/White. Overbrook Quilt Connection.
You explain things very nicely for beginners. I'm curious about one thing. Why don't you do your final join as a diagonal bias seam too? The join lays much flatter that way, and makes it impossible to tell where it is because it looks like all the other joins. I've been doing it that way for years and find it lays much better.
Not trying to tell you that your way isn't right - of course it is, as there are no quilt police - I'm just curious as to your reasoning behind this. Like others, I think this is a very well made tutorial. Lots of photos really help! But also like others, I wonder WHY you don't put that last seam in the binding itself on the diagonal. Is there a reason? When I get to that point, I overlap the binding ends, and cut so the overlap is a 'smidge' less than my binding width (2.25' in your case and mine). Then handle just like you did for all the binding joins.
And for the person who hates the hand work-I sew my binding on the BACK of the quilt. Then bring the binding around to the front and machine sew it down. I line up the crack in my sewing foot right on the edge of the binding, then move my needle one position to the right. That assures me that I will always catch the fold, but not by much! Anonymous said.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I was asked by a quilting friend if I could learn how to bind so I could bind her quilts. So she found this tutorial and I gave it a try.
For someone who has never quilted before, I was able to successfully bind a 'practice' quilt. The only thing I did wrong was I sewed the binding on the back of the quilt instead of the front so my nice seam was on the back and my stitches were on the front. I guess a quilter would have known that. Anyways, this tutorial is easy even for a beginner like me!
Thanks again, Sara, CA. Thank you for the tutorial! A question: How do you maintain a 1/4seam with a walking foot? I have a quarter inch foot that is my saving grace when quilting, but it has an edge that requires me to trim the quilt edges before I sew on the binding, otherwise the edge would be dragged across the excess fabric. My bindings come out OK, but there is so much fraying from having to trim in advance of the binding. I would rather do it your way, but I'm not sure how to maintain that 1/4 inch seam.
Is there such a thing as a 1/4 inch walking foot?
More Tutorials Blocks: Techniques: Projects: Binding: Continuous Prairie Points: Single Fold Binding A single fold binding is a good choice in several situations. You like single fold binding. You are short on fabric. You are making a wallhanging or other project that will not get used heavily. Note: I recommend that you do not trim away your backing and batting until after you have applied your binding. It is a little easier to manage all three layers if you can still see two of them. However my sample does does not reflect this tip!
I bought this little piece of a vintage quilt top at the thrift store, so it is all one size. This is just going to have to be one of those 'do as I say, not as I do' examples! To get started you will need your (quilted) quilt and a binding fabric.
Cut your binding fabric into 1 1/4' strips. You will need enough strips to go around the quilt edge plus 12' (for seam allowances and joining the ends).
Sew all of your strips together into one continuous piece. Start with two strips, right sides together, place ends at 90 degree angles and align both the top and right edges. Sew from corner to corner. Trim away the excess leaving a 1/4' seam allowance.
Repeat until all strips have been sewn together. Lay your binding onto the quilt top, right sides together, aligning edges. Leave a tail about 4' long.
Sew binding in place using a 1/4' seam allowance. Stop sewing when you are 1/4' away from the corner. Cut your threads and remove the quilt from the machine. Fold the binding up so that it is at a 90 degree angle to the quilt top. Align the edge of the quilt and the edge of the binding. Now fold the binding back down, aligning the sides and the top edge. Pin in place.
Starting at the edge, sew the entire length of the next side stopping 1/4' from the corner as before. Repeat until you have made it all the way back to the first side. Stop about 7' before you reach your starting point. You will need plenty of room to work. Go back to the end that you started with. Lay it out along the edge of the quilt and pin it in place near the end. Now, you are going to create the seam allowance needed to join the ends together.
The Binding Gizmo
They need to overlap by 1 1/4' (that is as wide as they were cut, so if you cut your strips at a different width keep this in mind). The simplest way to measure out the necessary length is to use the tail as a guide. Lay the tail across the binding as shown. You may want to pin it in place to keep it from shifting. Bring the other end of the binding across all that you have just laid out, aligning it with the edge of the quilt. Cut off the excess binding as shown. You should have an accurate seam allowance.
To join the ends, bring them together (right sides together and aligning edges). Now turn the right one a quarter turn, forming a 90 degree angle. This should look familiar. Follow the same steps as before to sew the ends together. Now, lay the binding in place. It should fit perfectly!
Sew the remaining portion in place, backstitching at both the beginning and the end. The machine work is finished. It is at this point that you should cut away the backing and batting. Use your seam allowance as a guide.
Trim flush with the edge. Hand turning. Begin by folding the outer edge of the binding in to just touch the edge of the seam allowance. Now fold it again so that the folded edge comes down to the seam line. All raw edges should now be sandwiched inside the folds. Take the first stitch. You will be using a basic applique stitch.
Catch just the edge of the fold on top, and the seam line below. Stitch all of the way across the first side. Take your last stitch at the corner seam line as shown. Fold the raw edge to the seam allowance as before. Fold again, as before, aligning the folded edge and the seam line. Take 2 stitches in the corner and then continue on as before, working your way around the quilt.
NOTE: If you would rather work with a slightly wider binding, cut your strips at 1 1/2' each. Then when folding them over, fold them to the seam line both times. ©2010-2017 Sewn into the fabric.Pieces of our lives. All rights reserved.
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